Saturday, 4 June 2016

Hanbok - Making Jeonmo (Hats)

I took a stab at making my own Jeonmo (전모)! That's the special hat that you always see the gisaeng wearing in dramas. I had planned to make one for a long while - I kept an eye out at every thrift store I visited for large lamp shades, to see if I could remake one into a hat. I finally did find a really big one quite some time ago, but it just sat in my closet, waiting for inspiration to strike.

Time Slip Dr. Jin
And it finally did! I wanted to do something crafty, and next thing I knew I had set up shop in the bathroom and was busy making a hat.

First off - it's not the best looking, at least on the inside. It was a little too large for what I wanted, so I needed to trim it down a little. Then I definitely wanted a different colour than textured tan!

So I decided to try taking off a little at a time, and marked off a couple of inches near a seam. Using a Sharpie and the tape measure, I made a little dotted line around the bottom edge roughly two inches from the edge. I couldn't get through the stiff wire on the bottom (which I really wish I could have kept for stability, but really, it was just too big to preserve it), so I bent it a little at the dotted line and got my scissors through, then cut around from there.

I was actually pretty happy with it the way it was, so I didn't cut off anymore. I did trim the edges up to smooth them out as much as I could.

Then I had to decide what to do about the colour. I have some Hanbok currently in progress, and all of them are some form of light blue, so I thought something that could coordinate with that would be better than something more random. I had a nice yellow fabric, but didn't think it would go too well with what I was making. Then as I was looking, I found some short dresses I had set aside to be given away or thrown out, and knew I could repurpose the skirts - what is with me and repurposing skirts??

Anyway, I cut it off at the waist, a nice circle skirt of good black cotton, and ironed it. Then I got the cat fur out of it.

I'm not even kidding. Next was figuring out adhesion - so I grabbed my younger brother's glue sticks, and used two of them to just glue the fabric straight on the shade (why is there so little glue in a glue stick?). It worked out pretty well - the fabric stuck right away, but it didn't dry too quickly to make adjustments, or slide around and dry in odd shapes like liquid glues do. Bonus points all around!! XD

The skirts themselves were made of two pieces of cloth in that special angled shape that gives a circle skirt its width and fullness. I cut the two apart at the seams and laid it across the lamp shade to cover as much ground as possible without wrinkling, and worked to the edges. When I got to where the pieces overlapped, I cut off the excess, folded one edge under, and glued it onto the top of the other piece to form a 'seam.'

The top of the 'hat' bothers me. There's no real way to seal it. I left excess fabric there, and I'm thinking I may just permanently attach the veil so you can't see what's going on at the crown of the hat.

After that was finished, I migrated back to my bedroom, satisfied with how size and look overall. I grabbed the yellow fabric I had tried out earlier and lined the inside to cover up the stains, using a third glue stick. Again, I just laid a couple of pieces of fabric inside and glued until I reached the overlaps, then glued one edge down, cut the excess fabric off the other and folded over for a 'seam.'

It is so much more yellow than this - bad lighting, guys

Then I needed to solve how this would rest on my head. I intend to wear this with a gisaeng wig, the big bunches and braids of hair helping raise the hat off my head, but I couldn't just plop it down. I located a small basket that I was supposed to use for knick knacks and hair ties (but didn't), and tried that out - 9 inches across the open top, 6 across the bottom, it was a perfect fit when inverted, so I stuck that down in the hat and got out needle and thread.

Little helper makes appearance!

I sewed across the larger bars you can see spearing out from the center bottom in the basket and attached them to the bars at the top of the lamp shade. I sewed through the extra fabric left at the top to hold it all down and closed. Hopefully the basket will stay - worming the needle through the wicker so it didn't split the wicker itself was a pain for my fingers, thimbles or no!

Next is to finish the bottom edges. I'm debating more glue or trying a running stitch. I want to bring the excess black over the edge and to the inside and cut off the excess yellow. But I got pretty sick the same evening I was working and stayed out of it for several days after - I've just got over the lingering cough in the past two days & I got all this done on the 27 of May. So it's back in the closet waiting for the finishing touches.

Hopefully I can get it finished up soon to show you the final look! Bit of a random update, but a good one, I hope!